The Beginning: 1876
In early March 1876, George Henry Bass entered the shoe-making and manufacturing business in Wilton, Maine. Grounded in practicality, he set out “To make the best possible shoe for the purpose for which it was intended.”
During the 1880s and 1890s, G.H.BASS developed the National Plow Shoe, designed for farmers working outdoors. In 1906, G.H.BASS introduced the Moccasin Cruiser for woodsmen. Made using traditional moccasin construction, the design brought together a soft leather upper that extends beneath the foot and is hand-stitched across the toe. This method of construction remains central to G.H.BASS shoemaking today. The Rangeley boot followed in 1910–1911, becoming a go-to moccasin for campers and outdoorsmen. Named after the Rangeley Lakes region of Maine, a well-known fishing destination, it reflected G.H.BASS's close connection with the outdoors.
Made for Exploration
As G.H.BASS grew in popularity, its footwear became part of notable adventures and explorations, accompanying those who ventured into some of the world's most challenging environments. In 1927, aviator Charles A. Lindbergh wore BASS Flying Boots during his solo transatlantic flight from New York to Paris, a journey lasting 33 hours, 30 minutes and 29.8 seconds. The following year, Admiral Richard E. Byrd began a series of Antarctic expeditions with G.H.BASS boots, later becoming known as the first person to reach the South Pole by air.
In 1930, our shoes made our way into American sporting history. Golfer Bobby Jones wore the Sportocasins during his Grand Slam season, winning all four major golf championships in the same year, a very rare achievement. In 1935, American explorer Bradford Washburn wore G.H.BASS boots during his journey along the Alaska–Yukon Boundary,
During WWII, in 1941, boots were developed for a U.S. Army 10th Mountain Division, known for its mountain and cold-weather operations, and in 1948, footwear was provided to the American Olympic Ski Team.
1936: Along Came The Weejuns®
1936 brought the Weejuns®, a new American loafer inspired by the traditional slip-on shoes worn by Norwegian fishermen and farmers. The Norwegian style had already caught the attention of British sportsmen visiting Norway and found its way to resorts across Europe and America. When Esquire editors spotted the shoes in Palm Beach, they began working with G.H.BASS and New York retailer Rogers Peet to develop the style. Already experienced in moccasin shoemaking, G.H.BASS brought its own craftsmanship and interpretation to the design, adding a saddle strap and penny slot (that would later define the loafer), and playfully named them Weejuns®.
The Ivy Student Icon
By the 1950s and 1960s, the Weejuns® had found their way on to Ivy League campuses, where students were embracing a more relaxed approach to dressing. Easy to wear with chinos, khakis, knitwear and blazers, the penny loafer slotted right into the mix, balancing a casual dress code with the traditional elements of Ivy style.
The distinctive strap design, with its cut-out slot, gave rise to a story that has become closely associated with the penny loafer. According to popular lore, Ivy League students began slipping a penny into the opening, supposedly keeping it handy for a payphone call. While the origin of the habit is difficult to verify, the name stuck, and the shoe became known as the penny loafer.
Moving Beyond the Ivy League Campuses
Beyond campus, Weejuns® made their way into Hollywood and the wider American cultural landscape. The penny loafer found admirers across film, music and public life, worn by figures including John F. Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Paul Newman. Audrey Hepburn wore the style in Funny Face, while jazz musician Miles Davis became known as the “Warlord of the Weejuns”, reflecting his close association with the loafers.
In 1967, the women's Sunjun sandal extended the G.H.BASS range into warm-weather footwear, carrying the brand's design influence into a new category.
A decade later, G.H.BASS marked its centennial with the introduction of the BASS 100 shoe in 1976. Selling one million pairs, it became a significant milestone in the brand's history and reinforced its place in American footwear.
Michael Jackson
In 1983, Michael Jackson wore black Weejuns® in the opening of the Thriller music video. The moment introduced the shoe to another generation and sparked a second wave of the Weejuns® craze. As the years rolled on, the penny loafer was adopted by different subcultures, each giving the iconic silhouette a new meaning. From the mods and Northern Soul scene in Britain to ska and 2 Tone, Italian Paninaro culture and Japan's enduring fascination with Ivy and American style, Weejuns® travelled far beyond their beginnings. The silhouette stayed the same, but the way people made it their own continued to change.
Continuing The Legacy
Continuing to find new audiences, collaborations became a way to explore the Weejuns® silhouette. Between 2009 and 2013, G.H.BASS joined forces with Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony, Mark McNairy, Tommy Hilfiger and Rachel Antonoff, each bringing their own interpretation to the G.H.BASS heritage.
Following acquisition by G-III Apparel Group in 2014, G.H.BASS entered a new chapter in its history. Collaborations with Universal Works, Engineered Garments® and RE/DONE brought the Weejuns® into new fashion contexts, while a 2018 campaign featuring Paris Jackson placed the collection in the spotlight once again.
More recent partnerships have continued this exchange of ideas, including collaborations with Woburn Walk by Nepenthes London, DSM Kei Ninomiya, Hast Paris, Karl Lagerfeld and Pop Trading Company.
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