How Weejuns® Became Weejuns®
In 1936, G.H.BASS introduced the world to Weejuns®, a new American loafer inspired by the traditional slip-on shoes worn by Norwegian fishermen and farmers. When Esquire editors spotted the Norwegian shoes in Palm Beach, they saw an opportunity and worked with G.H.BASS and New York retailer Rogers Peet to develop the style. Rogers Peet released one of the first advertisements for Weejuns® in 1936. G.H.BASS called the shoes Weejuns® as a playful shortening of “Norwegians”, a nod to the shoes' design inspiration.
The Craft Behind The Penny: The Tubular Moccasin Construction
Our process begins with choosing the right leather. High-quality leathers are chosen for their strength and durability, requiring the right balance of structure and flexibility. Strong enough to hold the shape of the loafer over time while also being flexible enough to allow for comfortable movement.
The leather is then cut and positioned to align with the natural grain to ensure the best finish. From here, our moccasin construction begins. The leather is pulled tightly around the last, extending underneath the foot before being brought together at the toe. It is then hand-sewn to create its iconic shape, taking an exceptionally skilled hand to maintain the right amount of tension, particularly around the toe of the moccasin. For 90 years, every pair of loafers has been hand-sewn using this technique, demanding an exceptional level of craftsmanship, precision and patience.
The Iconic Penny Loafer Saddle
The saddle is one of the most recognisable details of the Weejuns® penny loafer, and the small slot across its front is what gave the style its name. In the 1950s and ’60s, Weejuns® became a favourite among the Ivy League generation, who adopted the tradition of tucking a penny into the leather saddle. The coin was said to be kept handy for an emergency telephone call, giving rise to the name we know today: the Penny Loafer.
For our 90th Anniversary Weejuns®, we’re celebrating this much-loved detail with a commemorative gold coin, set into the familiar saddle of the Anniversary styles. A small detail with a story that has been part of the Weejuns® design for generations.
The Famous Beefroll Stitch
The beefroll stitch is one of our signature details. The rows of stitching wrap around the ends of the leather saddle, joining it to the upper and giving the penny loafer its distinctive finish. This is a technique that has been part of Weejuns® story since the beginning. But the beefroll isn’t just there for aesthetics; it keeps the saddle securely in place while the leather flexes with movement
Underneath It All
Long before our Easy Weejuns® rubber soles, leather was a natural choice for footwear because it could be cut, shaped and finished by hand. Its natural flexibility allowed the sole to bend and flex with every step. As the loafer flexes, the sole moves with the upper, helping the loafer retain its shape. The leather sole can also be replaced, extending the life of the loafer. A skilled craftsman can carefully remove the worn sole and hand-attach a new one, preserving the original shape of the loafer and maintaining the hand-finished touch that we love in our leather soles.
Outliving Trends For 90 Years
Penny loafers have outlasted trends for nine decades. Styles have changed, trends have come and gone, but the Weejuns® silhouette has remained. That longevity isn't accidental. Ninety years of making the original penny loafer has given us an understanding of what works. The real mark of a classic is not that it never changes, but that it never needs to change to follow the next coming trend.
Discover our anniversary collection here or see what’s new here
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